Vintage Sneaker
“Sneakers” di Beatrice Brandini
Alcuni mesi fa, in America, un paio di sneaker sono state battute all’asta per 71mila e 533 dollari (circa 64mila euro!), raggiungendo un record assoluto. Questa notizia fa riflettere su quanto il mercato di questo settore sia florido e di quanti appassionati ci siano, non soltanto (come si potrebbe pensare) per un paio di Jimmy Choo o Manolo Blahnik…
Le sneakers sono LE SCARPE del presente e futuro, sdoganate completamente dal loro contesto sportivo.
Air Jordan Nike
Brandblack
New Balance
Adidas Y3 by Yamamoto
Adidas Y3 by Yamamoto
Molti anni fa le sneakers (per noi italiani nati prima dei social, le scarpe da ginnastica) non erano un oggetto di culto, non erano di moda e soprattuto l’offerta, e conseguente scelta per il consumatore, era molto limitata. C’era una scarpa per correre, una per giocare a calcio o basket, una per stare semplicemente comodi.
Puma King by Jil Sander
Adidas by Raf Simons
Adidas by Raf Simons
Adidas by Raf Simons
Converse by Missoni
Converse by Missoni
Poi sono arrivate le tecnologie con le successive variazioni sul tema, ma sopratutto è arrivata Jil Sander che sul finire degli anni Novanta ha “firmato” una storica scarpa della Puma, la King, ed ha (è) cambiato tutto… Io c’ero, nel senso letterale del termine, poiché lavoravo per l’azienda tedesca proprio in quegli anni (un sodalizio durato 13 anni!), e da malata di moda com’ero (molto più di adesso) capii subito che era una svolta, per noi di Puma e per tutto il settore sportivo.
Adidas Stan Smith rainbow by Pharrell Williams
Adidas Stan Smith rainbow by Pharrell Williams
Adidas supershell by Pharrell Williams
Puma Mihara
Adidas Original Stan Smith by Raf Simons
Puma by Alexander McQueen
Dopodiché sono arrivati Yamamoto con Adidas e la linea Y3, Stella McCartney (Adidas), Alexander McQueen e Sergio Rossi (Puma), Raf Simons (Adidas), Kenzo (Vans), Missoni (Converse), Riccardo Tisci (Nike)… per non parlare di collaborazioni artistiche come quelle con Philippe Stark (Puma), Fondazione Keith Haring (Reebok), Murakami (Vans)… o di Pop stars come Jamiroquai (Adidas), Pharrell Williams (amandolo da vent’anni l’avevo segnalato all’allora direttore artistico di Puma International, era frontman dei N.E.R.D.. ma già estremamente carismatico e talentuoso, adesso uomo Adidas…), Noel Gallagher (Adidas) Kanye West (Nike e Adidas), Paolo Nutini (Puma)…
Adidas by Kanye West
Adidas by Kanye West
Adidas by Kanye West
Adidas by Rick Owens
Adidas by Rick Owens
Ma non credo, come molti affermano, che la ragione di questo incredibile e crescente successo stia nella tecnologia, probabilmente essa ha migliorato le prestazioni dei prodotti, soprattutto attraverso i nuovi materiali, finalizzando le performance a livelli mai raggiunti prima, ma se si fosse trattato solo di questo le sneakers & C. sarebbero rimaste dove erano, ovvero negli stadi, nelle palestre, nei campetti…
Nike Air Jordan
Puma Suede
Nike Air Max
Le Sneakers si sono evolute in pieni anni novanta con l’avvento di sportivi icone con i quali era facile (sognando) identificarsi (fra tutti Michael Jordan), di gruppi hip hop e R&B che diventavano voce delle “minoranze” e fenomeno dello street style, di una voglia di abbigliamento comodo ma esteticamente bello.
Adidas Yeesy
New Balance made in England
Nike Air Max Platinum
New Balance suede and tweed
Adesso ogni stilista o brand di lusso (anche quelli storici ed estremamente chic come Chanel o Dior) sviluppa una propria linea di sneakers, sono in passerella, su redazionali di tutto il mondo, ed è facile, anzi consueto, trovarle a completamento di un gessato o di un abito lungo….
Vans by Takashi Murakami
Vans by Takashi Murakami
Puma by Mihara
Adidas by Jeremy Scott
Molti anni fa il noto proprietario dei bellissimi e storici negozi di calzature Raspini di Firenze, mi confessò “le scarpe di estrazione sportiva saranno il futuro, che ci piaccia o no…, pertanto ogni marchio si dovrà adeguare..”. Aveva ragione!
“Bella gente” con sneakers….
Vintage sneakers advertising
Buona vita a tutti!
Beatrice
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