Pitti Time, leitmotif of this edition Nr. 105
Mood Plaid and Check by Beatrice Brandini
At the Fortezza da Basso, until 12 January, Pitti Immagine Uomo presents the collections for autumn – winter 2024/25, confirming its leadership among men’s fashion fairs at an international level.
Brands and designers, buyers and specialized press will open the season of fairs and fashion shows, arriving right here in Florence to admire something like 832 brands, of which almost 50% are foreign.
I start immediately with my moods.
“Plaid and Check” mood by Beatrice Brandini
I called the first mood “Plaid and Check” and is characterized by tartan or checked patterns, reinterpreted in a more eccentric and modern way. We are talking about wool, mohair, boiled wool, twisted wool, jacquard designs, to create a hand-made, natural and slightly vintage, nostalgic effect. Present many shades of red, burgundy, wine, carmine, etc.
“A new DENIM era” mood by Beatrice Brandini
The second theme is “A new DENIM era”, featuring denim whose washes and uses are surprising. It is an evergreen fabric, but season after season it has become something more precious and innovative. Born as a work garment, it is now embroidered, embellished, tailored…. We also find it casual, where however washes and treatments challenge AI.
“A GLITTER way. A GLITTER man”. Mood by Beatrice Brandini
A GLITTER way. A GLITTER man. A “sparkling” trend, characterized by precious fabrics that until some time ago were only available for parties or important occasions, have now become everyday and city use. Very interesting.
“Vintage Tailored” mood by Beatrice Brandini
Vintage Tailored is a classic theme that favors natural fabrics, shapes and well-made workmanship. There are many suits made up of blazers, even double-breasted ones, and pants. For timeless elegance, for a man who wants to be or feel reassured even through his look. Understatement.
Like every season I photographed the things that particularly struck me, but I saw so many beautiful things.
Pierre Louis Macia. I always photograph it because it’s always very interesting to me. Precious fabrics, heritage, luxury, but also fun and madness. They’re not just clothes, they’re sensations.
D-VEC, a young brand that already has a very strong personality. It was born from an offshoot of DAIWA, a leading company in the fishing sector. Very urban, very modern. Handsome!
Baziszt handcrafted and long-lasting garments, rich in details and with impeccable tailoring. I really liked this relaxed aspect of the collection, but also fun and well made.
Rovi Lucca is one of the collections that impressed me the most. Brand founded by the Italian designer Fabrizio Taliani and the Australian artistic director (very nice and kind) Bradley Seymour, who is inspired by the historic gardens of Lucca; addressing the very stylish gardener in all of us!
CHAPAL French manufacturer since 1832, specializing in very luxurious leather clothing and accessories. A know-how that draws on centuries-old techniques, a tannery within the company for more than two hundred years, ensures the best leathers for the collection.
Roy Robson, another historic brand, born in 1922. Modern but also deeply anchored to the past when this means quality and elegance.
WINDSOR. Excellent fabrics and cuts make this brand a guarantee, because, especially today, it is important to buy with greater awareness, choosing things that last over time.
AMC ALDOMARIACAMILLO project that is based on the meeting between Japan and Italy Hirofumi Kurino (HUMANOS) and the designer Aldo Maria Camillo. A beautiful capsule.
PUBLIC SERV-CE fashion and service uniforms, transforming the ordinary into the extraordinary, the casual into luxury.
COOPETTERBROS brand based in Los Angeles, characterized by slightly retro Japanese prints, romantic but also playful. Comfortable and unisex cuts. I liked it very much.
X brand born as a cultural ecosystem, which merges streetwear and fashion. The creative minds are two Parisian brothers. X is space travel.
Fay Archive, Fay brand presents this very interesting project, a collection made up of iconic pieces to highlight its workwear attitude and an unmistakable Italian style.
The theme of this winter season is Pitti Time, that is, perceived, real, virtual, unconquerable time, something that flows ineluctably from the past to the future.
“There is no time common to different places, but there is no single time in a single place either” is the teaching of Carlo Rovelli, theoretical physicist, author of “The Order of Time”, an essay that inspired Liliana Cavani for the film of the same name.
I’ll meet you in the next few days with the second part.
Good life to everyone!
Beatrice