“Splash” by Beatrice Brandini
Beatrice Brandini SS 2002 beachwear collection, photo AG
I have already dedicated a post to the swimsuit (https://www.beatricebrandini.it/costume-da-bagno-un-piccolo-indumento-amiconemico-delle-donne-in-realta-molto-importante/) , considering this small piece of cloth a key element in a woman’s style.
Mosaic at Villa del Casale in Piazza Armerina in Palermo
The swim in the nineteenth century
The swim in the nineteenth century
In this new post I want to briefly retrace the history of this garment; post some photos of the collections that I made with my brand from 1996 to 2001 (we talk about 25 years ago and, without presumption, I must say that my swimwear collections were beautiful and still very current); some pictures of the collections I made for Zucchi, a wonderful Beach project, and finally some tips for summer 2020.
Bathers 1910 – 1920
Costume from the 1940s
We can say that the evolution of the swimsuit went hand in hand with that of society, as indeed for all the styles and all the phenomena of fashion and costume. But certainly, when we talk about swimwear, we think of the emancipation of the woman, especially for the bikini, a small item that leaves little to the imagination, and that has progressed (or regressed), following the changes of her “mentor”, the woman.
Vogue covers from the 1940s
The first iconographic source of an example of a swimsuit is found in a mosaic of the III century. A.D. in Piazza Armerina in Sicily. In ancient times, however, there are few testimonials that we have, it was not customary to bathe, if not in spas, and in any case a specific garment was not used.
Jantzen advertising campaigns
Catalina advertising campaigns
Even in the Middle Ages and the Renaissance bathing is done naked or with little clothes, sometimes with a bodice with shoulder straps and a skirt. The appearance of a real navy outfit will be attributed to more recent eras, which, among other things, was very uncomfortable because it covered the woman almost completely (shorts, bodices, balloon skirts). But this is also linked to the tan theme, it was in fact the lower classes, peasants first, workers after, to be exposed to the sun for which tanned, the elite, who wanted to stand out, protected themselves with umbrellas and with chastised clothing.
Cole of California advertising campaigns
Rose Marie Reid advertising campaigns
Towards the mid / late nineteenth century the swimwear will feature swollen shorts at the calf and long dresses with a skirt close to the waist. A cap protected the head and completed it all. Subsequently, elements with marine references are adopted, such as stripes or the famous rectangular sailor collar.
Marilyn Monroe in California
Brigitte Bardot in Cannes
Ursula Andress in “007 License to Kill”
Sue Lyon in “Lolita”
From 1900, going to the beach on holiday instead becomes more usual, the first bathing establishments of Viareggio, Rimini and Lido of Venice are born, at the same time, thermal holidays also spread, such as those in Salsomaggiore or Montecatini. Here will be a profusion of white linen and lace, hats with flowers and sun umbrellas.
Cosmopolitan covers from the 70s and 80s
Elle Macpherson on the cover of Cosmopolitan (1984) and on Elle (1993)
Elle Macpherson photographed by Gilles Bensimon on Elle USA (1987)
In the twenties the costume follows the liberalization of women, becoming smaller and more comfortable, the first low-cut costumes on the back and the (beautiful) ones with geometric and abstract designs also appear. The very chic silk or satin beach pajamas will also appear
The first “technical” fabrics such as jersey and Lastex were introduced in the 1930s.
It is in 1946 the appearance of the first bikini with the uncovered navel, Louis Reard, a Swiss designer, will present it in Paris causing a real shock. However, for most of the 1950s, the two-piece swimsuit will be banned in public places, its use sanctioned as an outrage against modesty. The one-piece swimsuit in poplin, satin or taffeta will still be used.
Yasmeen Ghauri photographed by Patrick Demarchelier on Grazia Italia (1990)
Beachwear collection by Beatrice Brandini – SS1997
Beachwear collection by Beatrice Brandini – SS 1998
But it will be a woman, the formidable Coco Chanel, who will make the tan fashionable and consequently the passion for “beach” outfits. Chanel’s revolution was not so much in the creation of something special, but rather in the change of shapes or cuts, or in the introduction of more “nudity”, in fact her outfits were characterized by bare arms and shorts.
Beachwear collection by Beatrice Brandini – SS 1999
Beachwear collection by Beatrice Brandini – SS 2001
Beachwear collection by Beatrice Brandini – SS 2002
Christy Turlington campaign Calvin Klein (1996)
The first “technical” fabrics such as jersey and Lastex were introduced in the 1930s.
It is in 1946 the appearance of the first bikini with the uncovered navel, Louis Reard, a Swiss designer, will present it in Paris causing a real shock. However, for most of the 1950s, the two-piece swimsuit will be banned in public places, its use sanctioned as an outrage against modesty. The one-piece swimsuit in poplin, satin or taffeta will still be used.
Eres campaign, (one of my all time favorites).
Eres 2013 campaign
The most revolutionary aspect of the sixties will however be attributable to a fabric, or to the appearance of Lycra (trademark patented by Du Pont), an elasticized fabric that adheres perfectly to the body and dries quickly.
Designs and Costumes by Beatrice Brandini for Zucchi SS – 2013. Photo AG
The rest is history .. A wonderful Ursula Andress in “007 License to kill”, Raquel Welch in “A million years ago”, Brigitte Bardot in Cannes, Sue Lyon in “Lolita”, Bo Derek in “10” ….
Costumes Zimmermann SS 2020. I have been following this brand for a long time, over the years, in addition to great creativity it has become more beautiful and refined.
Costumes Johanna Ortiz SS 2020. A recent discovery, beautiful fit and attention to detail such as seams and finishes, fundamental when it comes to beach.
Today costumes are the protagonists of our summers, in some cases they have become so “important” that they are worn alone with a pair of shorts. The choice is very varied, women can find their ideal model based on their physicality and taste. Here is a rundown of those who, for me, are the most beautiful of summer 2020.
Costumes Lisa Marie Fernandez SS 2020. Another very interesting brand, the costumes are beautiful, whether they are more “easy” models such as terry cloths, or for the “carioca” couture models.
Peony Swim SS 2020 costumes. Refined, feminine, delicate costumes, like the name they carry. This summer, those with embossed fabric are wonderful.
Costumes Marysia SS 2020. Very beautiful for solutions and cuts. Again excellent fit
We all need lightness, never like in this complicated summer. The hope is that everyone can find some serenity and that also through the things we love, such as fashion, to rediscover a smile and a stimulus.
“Model in swimsuit” by Beatrice Brandini
Good life to everyone!
Beatrice